Welcome to Taylor Canyon - Rosy Lane Buttress

City:	Gunnison	State:	US-Colorado
Size:	Months	Style:	Trad
Season:	Spring-Fall	Difficulty:	Intermediate

Overview

The Rosy Lane buttress is across the river from Rosy Lane Campground. The easiest approach is to park at the north end of the North Bank Campground. There is a parking area there for the use of hikers despite what the signs say. Keep driving north through the campground until you cannot drive any more. Park and walk about a mile along the river. You will pass a number of the Miscellaneous climbs listed and come to a screee field below Death Dihedrals. The buttress is just after this field. The climbs start on the north side of the buttress, continue on the east side, facing the river, and end up in the tight gully on the south side.

This tight Gully is difficult to find. Usually people get to it from above rather than below. Once you drop out of it once you'll be able to find it from below fairly easily but the first time, it's recomended you climb one of the other climbs to the top of the buttress. If you keep walking up the mountain fading left (south) a steep gully will appear heading east (back toward the river). Walk around a bit and you will discover it...

Climbs Available

Rosy Lane Buttress north-side

Corrections / New Routes

(1) 5.8 corner (5.8) Trad - Climb follows the left facing dihedral which turns into an offwidth, which can be avoided. Length: 80'

(2) Ghengis Face (5.11a) Sport - Three bolts up the face to the right of 5.8 crack. The opening stemming moves are more interesting then they look for shorter people. Length: 60' FA: Pike Howard, Nick Meyers

Rosy Lane Buttress east-side

Corrections / New Routes

(3) Starting Line (5.8) Trad - Hand Jive, Mirror Crack, and Fine Line all start at a ledge halfway up the buttress wall. A pitch of mostly 5.5 climbing followed by a single 5.8 move pulling over a roof gains access to this starting ledge. Length: 60'

(4) Hand Jive (5.8) Trad - Climb the left facing dihedral through an offwidth. Length: 60'

(5) Mirror Crack (5.9+) Trad - So named because it mirrors the crack across the valley. Follow the obvious hand crack up to a slight overhang. Do a hand traverse to the left at this overhang and then up to the HUGE flake. Follow the flake up. Remember to protect the second on both the left traverse and the walk off to the right at the top. Length: 60'

(6) Fine Line (5.10a) Trad - Follow the faint cracks to the left of of Mirror crack. The climb tops out higher than Mirror Crack.

Rosy Lane Buttress south-side

Corrections / New Routes

(7) Full Sack (5.11bR) Sport - Climb is the top most sport climb in the gully on the south side of Rosy Lane. The R rating is given for the two or three 5.10a moves after the three bolts. These moves are only protectable via a crack way off to the left. A fall would send you into the wall sidewise. FA: Pike Howard/Nick Dubra

(8) Rosy Arete (5.11c/d) Sport - Interesting moves at the bottom and top of this climb. Five bolts protect the climb. Also finger sized pro protects the crack at the top. FA: Pike Howard/Nick Dubra